(Kyoto-67/Takohachi)日本美味しいもの巡り Japan delicious food and wine tour

新京極通蛸薬師通の交差点の喧騒の中、静かに佇む名店「割烹 蛸八」へ。コロナ緊急事態宣言による休業もあり、気がつくと今年初めての訪問。緊急事態宣言の中、再訪を心待ちにしていた。

Went to "Kappo Takoyachi", a famous restaurant standing in the middle of the bustling intersection of Shinkyogoku and Takoyakushi Doris.  As the restaurant was closed due to the declaration of the state of emergency in Covid, the visiting here was the first time this year.  In the midst of the emergency declaration, always looking forward to coming again.

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お通しの卵豆腐と、澤屋まつもとの冷酒、通称「まっちゃん」。

Had egg tofu as an appetizer and cold sake from Sawaya Matsumoto, called as "Machan".

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香ばしく炙られた「鰹の叩き」は、毎回オーダーする逸品。たっぷりの九条ネギと生姜、美味しいぽん酢ダレがパーフェクトに共演。今回は久々の営業・仕入れでニンニクを切らしていたとの事だが、いつも通り美味しかった。そう言えばニンニクは普通なら割烹料理に使われないかも。

"Tataki", fragrantly seared bonito slices were the must-order every time.  Plenty of kujo green onions, ginger, and a delicious ponzu sauce made a perfect combination.  Told that they were out of garlic this time due to a long absence from business and stocking, but it was delicious as usual.  Came to think of it, garlic was not normally used in kappo cuisine.
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定番の小芋揚げ。出汁で炊かれねっとりした小芋が、サクッと軽く揚がっている。柚子が品よく。炭水化物は控えたい、なんて考える暇もなく食べてしまう。

Deep-fried small potatoes.  Small potatoes boiled in soup stock were lightly fried to a crisp.  Yuzu (Japanese citron) added a nice touch.  Didn't even have time to think about cutting back on carbohydrates.
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かしわの焼き物。火で炙り山椒をかけた鶏肉を辛子をアクセントにソースで頂く。びっくりする程ソースと合う。キャベツとトマトもソースで。

Grilled Kashiwa (chicken).  The chicken was roasted over a fire and covered with sansho (Japanese pepper) and served with a sauce with mastard.  It went surprisingly well with the sauce.  Cabbage and tomatoes were also served with the sauce.
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蛸ハ名物、ぐじ(甘鯛)の塩焼き。いつもながら焼き加減や塩加減が絶品。身はふっくらで見た目よりボリューミー。

Takohachi's specialty, the grilled guji (sea bream).  As always, the degree of grilling and saltiness was superb.  The fish meat was plump and more voluminous than it looks.
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ぐじの皮は、さらにカリッと焼いた後にサーブしてくれるので、パリパリのクリスピーな食感。こうしたちょっとした工夫は蛸ハならでは。とにかく、全ての味がぴたりと決まっている。素材の良さを、奇をてらわずに真面目に最大限に引き出す。簡単なようで難しい。

今夜は2か月ぶりの営業再開日だったとのこと。次回はこの時期限定の土瓶蒸しを頂く為に数日後に予約。お楽しみに。京料理と言えば蛸ハ、を実感した夜。ご馳走さまでした。

The skin of goji fish was grilled to a crisp before being served, giving it a dry and crunchy texture.  These little touches were unique to Takohachi.  In any case, all the flavors were perfectly in place.  Bringing out the best of the ingredients in a serious way, without trying to do anything strange. It sounded simple, but was difficult.
Tonight was the first day Takohachi reopened in two months.  Made another reservation for the next time in a few days to try the earthenware steamer, only available at this time of year.  Looking forward to it.  This night made realize that Kyoto cuisine was all about Takohachi.  Thank you for the meal.

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食後は腹ごなしも兼ねて新京極通を散歩。全部で8つの寺院がある。蛸薬師通との交差店にある「蛸薬師永福寺」。浄土宗西山深草派。コロナのため16時に閉門。

After dinner, took a walk along Shinkyogoku Dori.  There were eight temples in all.  "Takoyakushido Eifukuji Temple" was located at the intersection of Takoyakushi Dori.  The temple of the Seizan Fukakusa sect of the Jodo Buddhism.  The gate closes at 16:00 for Covid.
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「誠心院東北寺」。真言宗泉涌寺派。初代住職は平安の歌人、元祖・恋愛体質とも評される和泉式部で、貴船神社で願掛けをし、離れてしまった夫の心を見事とりもどしたエピソードでも知られる。

"Seishin-in Tohoku-ji Temple".  The temple of the Sennyu-ji sect of Shingon Buddhism. The first head priest of the temple was Izumi Shikibu, a female poet of the Heian period who was reputed to be the original love interest.  She was also known for the episode that she successfully regained the heart of her estranged husband by making a wish at Kifune Shrine.

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蛸薬師通沿いの「安養寺」。浄土宗西山禅林寺派。倒蓮華寺(さかれんげじ)とも呼ばれる。

"Anyouji Temple" on Takoyakushi Dori.  The Seizan Zenrinji sect of the Jodo Buddhism.  Also called Saka (reversed) Renge-ji Temple.

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錦通りとの交差点にある「錦天満宮」。学問の神様、菅原道真公を祀る。

"Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine" was located at the intersection of Nishiki Street.  It enshrined Sugawara no Michizane, the god of learning.
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四条通との交差点にある「染殿院(そめどのいん)」。弘法大師空海の創建と言われる。一遍上人を開祖とする時宗の寺院。

"Somedono-in Temple" was located at the intersection of Shijo Dori.  It is said founded by Kobo-Daishi Kukai.  The temple of the Jishu Buddhism, whose founder was Ippen Shonin.
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新京極通から賑やかな四条通に出ると、「八坂神社御旅所」。祇園祭神幸祭の際に、八坂神社から町に出てこられた分霊をお迎えする神霊社で、言わば神様の宿泊所。今年は祇園祭山鉾巡行は中止になったが、代わりに各保存会の代表がここまで歩き御旅所に参拝した。

When exited Shinkyogoku Dori onto busy Shijo Dori, came to "Yasaka Shrine Otabisho".  It is a satellite shrine that welcomes the spirits from Yasaka Shrine to the town during Gion Festival.  This year, the festival's Yamaboko procession was cancelled, but instead, representatives of each preservation society walked here to worship the Otabisho.
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すぐ横に鎮座する「冠者殿社」は、八坂神社の境外摂社。創建不詳だが、御祭神は素戔嗚尊の御気。天照大神との誓約〔うけひ〕の故事により、誓文払いの祖神とされる。全国各地で行われる歳末大安売りのルーツもこちらにあるという説も。京都の歴史は日本の歴史。

"Kanjadensha Shrine", sat right next to the shrine, was a secondary shrine outside Yasaka Shrine.  The year after of shrine's construction was old and unknown, but the deity enshrined here was Susanoo-no-Mikoto.  It is said the ancestor deity of vow-paying, based on the legend of the vow with Amaterasu.  There was also a legend that the year-end bargain sales had the root here.  The history of Kyoto is the history of Japan.

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