(Kyoto-55/Sanjusangendo-Chishakuin-Izuju)日本美味しいもの巡り Japan delicious food and wine tour

歩いて「蓮華王院 三十三間堂」(国宝)へ。平安時代後白河法皇が、自身の退位後(上皇)の住まい(法住寺殿と呼ばれた広大な敷地)に、時の権力者・平清盛の資金協力を得て1164年に建造したお堂。

南北約125メートルある特徴的な長い本堂内に、等身大で金色の千手観音立像が約1000体整然と並ぶさまは圧巻で圧倒される。2018年には、目出たく1001体観音立像の全てが国宝に一括指定された。「蓮華王」は御本尊である千手観音像の別称。

Walked to "Rengeo-in Sanjusangendo" (National Treasure).  It was built in 1164 by Emperor Go-Shirakawa in the Heian period (794-1185) as his residence after his abdication (as emperor), with the financial support of Taira no Kiyomori, a powerful man of the time.

Inside the long main hall, about 125 meters long from north to south, there are 1,001 life-sized golden statues of the thousand-armed Avalokitesvara standing in an orderly line. 
In 2018, all of the 1001 statues were collectively designated as national treasures.  "Rengeo" is another name for the main statue of the thousand-armed Avalokitesvara.

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建造から程なく1249年に火事で焼け落ちた際、千体仏のうち124体は救出された。失われた観音像877体の復興には、運慶・快慶らで知られる慶派を始め、院派や円派という鎌倉時代を代表する奈良・京都の錚々たる仏師集団が総動員され、約16年にわたり150人が造像に関わったという大プロジェクト。

さて、残念ながら館内は撮影禁止。それぞれの観音様の胎内には10の観音様のプリントが作り込められており、合計で約10000体の観音様がいらっしゃる計算になる、と説明書きにある。

When the temple was destroyed by fire in 1249, 124 of the 1,001 statues were rescued. The reconstruction of the 877 lost statues of the Avalokitesvara was a huge project that involved 150 artists over a period of about 16 years, including a group of eminent Buddhist masters from Nara and Kyoto representing the Kamakura period, such as the Kei school known for Unkei and Kaikei, the In and the En schools.

Unfortunately, photography was not allowed in the building.   According to the description oitside, there are 10 prints of Avalokitesvara in the womb of each statue, which means there are about 10,000 Avalokitesvara statues in total.

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1961年・後白河法皇770回忌記念事業の際に、名作庭家・中根金作氏が造園された庭は、今年再整備された。メンテナンスは大事。

The garden, which was created by the famous gardener, Mr. Kinsaku Nakane, in 1961 to commemorate the 770th anniversary of the death of Emperor Go-Shirakawa, was renovated this year.  Maintenance is always important.


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すぐそばにある、真言宗智山派総本山「智積院」へ。桃山美術の豪華絢爛さを今に伝える長谷川等伯の障壁画・襖絵で有名。

Went to "Chishakuin", the head temple of the Chizan sect of Shingon Buddhism, which is located nearby.  It is famous for the barrier paintings and sliding door paintings by Hasegawa Tohaku, which convey the splendor of Momoyama art to this day.

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宝物館内は撮影禁止の為、公式ホームページより抜粋。実物は、写真よりもくすんだ色調。

長谷川等伯による楓図(国宝)。

Since photography is not allowed in the Treasure House, copied some from their official website.  Maple painting by Hasegawa Tohaku (National Treasure). 

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同、松に秋草図(国宝)と松に黄蜀葵図(国宝)。

Autumn Grass on a Pine Tree (National Treasure) and Yellow and Red Sunflower on a Pine Tree (National Treasure).

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御子息の長谷川久蔵による桜図(国宝)。

Cherry blossoms by his son, Kyuzo Hasegawa (National Treasure).
All sources: https://chisan.or.jp/chishakuin/houmotsu/
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これらの金碧障壁画は、秀吉が3歳で夭折した鶴松の菩提を弔うために建立した「祥雲禅寺」の客殿に飾ざられていたもの。講堂に面した素晴らしい名勝庭園も、祥雲禅寺から引き継ぎ修復されたもの。詳細は省くが、祥雲禅寺は天和2年(1682年)の火災で焼失し、跡形も残っていない…

These gold barrier paintings were originally displayed in the guest hall of Shounzenji Temple, which was built by Hideyoshi to mourn the death of his son, Tsurumatsu, who died prematurely at the age of three.  The splendid scenic garden facing the auditorium was also taken over from Shounzenji and restored.  Shounzenji was destroyed by fire in 1682, and no trace of it remains.

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築山と石と池のバランスが絶妙。「利休好み」とされている。

The balance of the artificial hill, stones, and pond is exquisite.  It is said "Rikyu's favorite", the genius tea master.
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石庭。

Stone garden.

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入り口の看板に、智積院が当地で真言宗智山派総本山となった由来が記載されている。弘法大師空海没後、学問の中心は和歌山根来山に移り、秀吉と対立し焼き討ちにあうも、徳川家康により再建され現在の地に移転したという。つくづく、京都は歴史と仏教を理解するのに最適な場所だ。

A signboard at the entrance explains how Chishakuin became the head temple of the Chizan sect of Shingon Buddhism in this area. After the death of Kobo-Daishi Kukai, the center of learning was moved to Wakayama's Negoro. But the place was burned down in a confrontation with Hideyoshi, and was rebuilt and moved to its current location by Tokugawa Ieyasu.  Kyoto is indeed a great place to understand history and Buddhism.

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さらに近くの「豊国神社」へ。秀吉を祀る神社。この辺りは後白河上皇平清盛の隆盛にあやかり秀吉が色々な施設を設置したらしい。今は静かな場所。京都では秀吉の痕跡は上書き保存されている。諸行無常

Went to the nearby Toyokuni Shrine. The shrine is dedicated to Hideyoshi.  Apparently, Hideyoshi set up various facilities in this area in honor of the prosperity of Emperor Go-Shirakawa and Taira no Kiyomori.  Now it's a quiet place.  In Kyoto, traces of Hideyoshi have been overwritten and preserved.  All things are impermanent.

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帰宅し、奈良の「大倉本家」の中取り無濾過生原酒を。甘み、旨み、フルーティさ、全てが際立ちながら、上手くバランスしていて、意外にも後味がスッキリ、ついついグラスがススむが、全く飲み疲れしない。試飲出来ず正直あまり期待しなかったが、とても美味しく頂いた。

After returning home, had an unfiltered, unpasteurized sake from "Okura Honke" in Nara.  The sweetness, umami, and fruity flavors all stood out and were well balanced, with a surprisingly clean aftertaste.  Couldn't taste it when bought it so didn't expect much, but really enjoyed it.

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