(Kyoto-26/Kamigamo Shrine)日本美味しいもの巡り Japan delicious food and wine tour

上賀茂神社(賀茂別雷神社)へ。

平安京遷都前・山背国時代の7世紀末創建で京都最古の神社。鴨川の上流域に位置する上賀茂神社下鴨神社は「賀茂神社賀茂社)」と総称され、平安遷都後は皇城鎮護の神・山城国一之宮として崇められてきた。もちろん世界遺産

Went to Kamigamo Shrine (Kamowake Ikazuchi Jinja).  The oldest shrine in Kyoto, founded at the end of the 7th century during the Yamashiro-no-kuni period, before the transfer of the capital to Heian-kyo (Kyoto).  Kamigamo Shrine and Shimogamo Shrine, located in the upper reaches of the Kamo River, were collectively known as Kamo Shrine (Kamo-sha), and after the transfer of the capital to Heian period, it was revered as a deity of protection of the imperial castle and the first shrine in Yamashiro Province.  Of course, it is a World Heritage Site.f:id:winelovers2050:20210106161118j:image

上賀茂神社の一の鳥居、二の鳥居はかつての御所・長岡京から見ると北東の表鬼門にあたる。上賀茂神社が都の守護神とされる所以。

The first and second torii gates of Kamigamo Shrine are located on the northeast side of the gate when viewed from Nagaoka-kyo, the former Imperial Palace.  This is the reason why Kamigamo Shrine was regarded as the guardian deity of the capital city.

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 二ノ鳥居を入ると目に入るのが、正面の「立砂(たてすな)」と、奥の「細殿(ほそどの)」。

立砂は陰と陽の一対あり、神秘的だ。賀茂別雷が降り立った神山を象ったもので、お清めの砂の起源だという。細殿(重文)は、天皇上皇行幸啓の、さらに葵祭の際には斎王の休憩所。

 "Tatesuna Sand" in front of the second torii gate and the "Hosodono Hall" at the back.  There are two pairs of sand mountains, one yin and one yang, and they are mysterious.  It is said the origin of the sand used for purification, as it represents the sacred mountain where Kamowake Ikazuchiyama God landed. Hosodono (important cultural asset) was used as a resting place for the emperors and abdicated emperors, and also for the Saio Princess during Aoi Matsuri Festival
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北側に「御物忌川」(おものいがわ)、葵祭斎王代御禊(さいおうだいぎょけい)の儀が行われる「御手洗川」(みたらしがわ)が本殿を東西から挟むように流れ、合流し「ならの小川」に。ならの小川にかかる「橋殿(はしどの)」と、本殿に入る「楼門」。いずれも重文。

The Omonoi River flows in the north, and the Mitarashi River, where the purification ritual for the Saiodai Gyokeu-no-gi is held during the Aoi Matsuri Festival, flows in the east and west sides of the main shrine, merging into Narano Ogawa Stream.  Hashi(bridge)-dono over the Narano-Ogawa stream and Romon Gate into the main shrine.  Both are important cultural properties.

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楼門をくぐると現れる「直会(なおらい)殿」。この奥に、御祭神を祀る「本殿」と式年遷宮時に仮殿となる「権殿(ごんでん)」がある。いずれも国宝(撮影不可)で、日本の神社の約六割を占める「流造」の原型となった建築物だ。次回の式年遷宮2036年。今日は中まで入り直接本殿にお参り。

The "Naorai-den Hall" appears after passing through Romon Gate.  At the back of the hall is the Honden (main hall), where the deity is enshrined, and the Gonden, which is used as a temporary hall during the Shikinen Sengu (rebuild) ceremony.  Both are national treasures (not allowed for photography).  The main hall is the prototype for the Nagare style of shrine construction, which accounts for about 60% of all shrines in Japan.  The next shikinen sengu will be held in 2036.  Today, we went inside and visited the main hall directly.
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本殿から出た所にある「伊勢神宮遥拝所」。今年の伊勢神宮への初詣は、上賀茂神社から遥拝する。

The Ise Jingu Worshiping from afar is located just outside the main shrine.  This year's New Year's worshipping to the Ise Shrine is from Kamigamo Shrine.
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上賀茂神社から、バスで京大正門前へ。外国人観光客数が減りコロナ以前の通常モードに戻り、激混みで避けていたバスに乗る。京都はあちこちに史跡が埋まっている為か、地下鉄よりバスが発達。

From Kamigamo Shrine, took a bus to the main gate of Kyoto University.  The number of foreign tourists has decreased, and the city is back to the normal mode it used to be before Coronavirus, so took the bus, which used to avoid because of the heavy crowds.  In Kyoto, buses are more developed than subways, probably because there are many historical sites buried here and there.
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京大正門向かい、かつ吉田神社の鳥居前にある天ぷら屋さん「かふう」でランチ。正月2日、3日は昼のみ営業で、丼ものを提供。

Had lunch at Kafu, the tempura restaurant located across from the main gate of Kyoto University and in front of the torii gate of Yoshida Shrine.  On New Year's Day 2 and 3, the restaurant is open only for lunch and serves tempura and rice bowls.
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こちらは京野菜や山菜の天ぷらがとても美味しい。京都の季節を楽しめるかふうさんは、いつも真っ先に伺うお気に入りのお店の一つ。

The tempuras of Kyoto vegetables and wild plants are very delicious here.  Kafu is one of the first places go to enjoy the seasons in Kyoto.
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お正月なので、まず富翁を。

Since it's New Year's first day, started with Tomio (sake).
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海老天丼とミックス丼。

Shrimp tempura rice bawl and mixed tempura rice bawl.
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ホテルに帰宅後、お正月の銘菓「花びら餅」を頂く。

After returning to the hotel, enjoyed  "Hanabira Mochi", a famous New Year's cake.

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ここでトリビア情報。京都市営地下鉄の駅ではSuicaにチャージする際、10円単位でチャージできるので、溜まったコインを減らすのに便利。(他社の多くは1000円単位)

Here's a trivia information.  At Kyoto City Subway stations, can charge Suica Card by 10 yen unit (at most other railways, can charge only by 1000 yen), which is convenient for reducing many heavy coins accumulated.

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さて、京都最後の夜のワイン。白は、南イタリア・カンパーナ州DOC Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio、「キリストの涙」を。黒い火山性土壌で栽培された地元品種falanghinaファランギーナ種とCoda do Volpeコーダ・ディ・ヴォルペ種を手摘みして作られた、ミネラリーでフレッシュな辛口。

作り手「フェウディ・ディ・サン・グレゴリオ」を調べると、土着品種アリアーニコを大化けさせ「タウラージ」「セルピコ」などを世に送り出した有名なカンティーナ。6世紀末、旧アッピア街道沿い一体にブドウ栽培を奨励しワイン造りの伝統を築いた教皇グレゴリオ1世に敬意を表し、聖グレゴリオの領地を社名にしたという。6世紀といえば京都では遷都前で渡来人の秦氏賀茂氏が一大勢力で、仏教が伝来した頃。ワインの楽しみの一つは、こうして由来や歴史を調べること。

Had wines for the last night in Kyoto.  The white wine was DOC Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio from Campana, Southern Italy, "Tears of Christ".  It is a minerally, fresh, dry wine made from hand-picked local varieties of falanghina and coda do Volpe grown in black volcanic soil.  The wine was a tribute to Pope Gregory I, who encouraged viticulture along the old Appian Way at the end of the 6th century and established a tradition of winemaking. 

The 6th century was a time before the relocation of the capital to Kyoto, when the immigrants, Hata and Kamo clans, were in power and Buddhism was introduced to the city.  One of the pleasures of wine is researching those origins and histories.
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赤ワインは、イタリアを代表するワイナリーMASIが伊最北のドロミーティで作るこだわりの赤ワイン。トレンティーノ地方土着品種マルツェミーノをアパッシメント(陰干し)してから醸造。スッキリした酸とアパッシメントによるリッチで豊かな香りのバランスが良い赤。

尚、マルツェミーノ種はモーツァルトが愛したワインとしても知られ、歌劇「ドン・ジョヴァンニ」では主人公のドン・ジョヴァンニが『Versa il vino! Eccellente Marzemino!(ワインを注げ!最高のマルツェミーノを!)』と歌う。

The red wine was made by MAGI, one of Italy's leading wineries, in the northernmost part of Dolomiti.  Marzemino, an indigenous variety of Trentino, is vinified after being apassimented (shade-dried).  The wine had a rich aroma due to the acidity and appassimento, and a rich yet clean and balanced red.  Marzemino is also known as Mozart's favorite wine, and in the opera "Don Giovanni", the main character, Don Giovanni, says, "Versa il vino! Eccellente Marzemino! (Pour me some wine!  The best Marzemino!)". 

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