(Kyoto-17/Shugakuin Imperial Villa)日本美味しいもの巡り Japan delicious food tour

お昼に祇園「いづ重」へ。八坂神社のお向かい。

For lunch, visited Gion "Izuju".  It is located opposite Yasaka Shrine.

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鯖姿寿司とアジ寿司を頂く。こちらの鯖鮨は塩加減・味ともに好み。頼みたかったお稲荷さんは暑い時期は提供していないそう。
Had mackerel sushi and horse mackerel sushi.  Love this mackerel sushi for its right saltiness and taste.  Inari sushi, which wanted to order, is not available during hot summer.

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午後は、宮内庁管轄施設見学の3つ目の「修学院離宮」へ。後水尾(ごみずのう)上皇が自ら粘土で縮尺モデルを作りながら設計し比叡山の山裾に建設した広大な離宮で、下離宮、中離宮、上離宮の3つから成る。

桂離宮修学院離宮の造営が始められた慶長〜寛永の時期(16世紀末~17世紀前半)は、京都で公家や文化人を中心に、平安貴族が好んだ王朝文化に関心が高まった時期。「源氏物語」などで描かれる、和歌を詠み管弦を奏で舟遊びや酒宴に興ずる雅な王朝文化的生活を具現化するには、山や川に望む場所に造営された両離宮は理想的な場所だった。

In the afternoon, headed to "Shugakuin Imperial Villa", third facility under management by Imperial Household Agency.  This has a vast garden with lower, middle and upper palaces built on the foot of Mt. Hiei, designed by Emperor Gomizuno himself by making a scale model with clay.

During the period from Keicho to Kanei (end of 16th century to beginning of 17th century), when Katsura Imperial Villa and Shugakuin Imperial Villa were built, there was a growing interest in the dynasty culture favored by the Heian aristocrats in Kyoto, mainly by officials and people of culture.  For realizing a royal dynasty's cultural life in which poems, orchestras, pond sailings and dinner parties are portrayed, like life of "Tale of Genji", Imperial Palaces built in the mountain or river areas were the ideal places.

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先ず下離宮から。下御茶屋・寿月館(じゅげつかん)はあいにく屋根葺替工事中で外観のみ。下離宮の正門から中を想像。

Started the tour at the lower palace.  Its tea room, Jugetsukan, is under construction to replace the roof, so can be seen only from outside.  Imagined the inside of the main gate of the lower palace.

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離宮の通用門として使われていた北門と手前の井戸を横目に、中離宮へ向かう。

Looked at the north gate of the lower palace used by servants used as their entrance and the well, and headed to the middle garden.
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離宮を見上げるが、木々に囲われていて建物は見えず、綺麗に手入れされた稲田が広がる。近隣の農家の方々が宮内庁所有地で耕作している。米はキヌヒカリ

Looking up at the upper palace, but can't see the building because it is surrounded by woods, and can see beautiful rice fields.

Farmers in the neighborhood cultivate in the Imperial Household Agency's rice field.  Rice type is Kinuhikari.

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離宮も木々の中。

The middle palace is also hidden in the woods.

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離宮に向かう道には、背丈を抑えて低木に育てた赤松の並木が400本。「御所透かし」という手法で剪定し、抜け感をデザインしている。赤松の曲線が美しい。

Along the path to the middle palace, there are 400 red pine trees that have been grown into shrubs with limited height.  Pruning is done by a technique called "Gosho watermark" to design the less formal appearances.  The round shapes of pine trees are beautiful.
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離宮の正門。

The main gate of the middle palace.
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楽只軒(らくしけん)や客殿(きゃくでん)に向かう登り坂が続く。

The stairways to Rakushiken and Kyakuden tea rooms start here.

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離宮の中門。

The second gate.
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離宮・楽只軒(らくしけん)は、後水尾上皇の第八皇女、もともとは朱宮光子(あけのみやてるこ)内親王の住居。

Rakushiken tea room was originally the residence of Emperor Gomizuo's eighth daughter, Princess Teruko Akenomiya.
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客殿(きゃくでん)には、後水尾上皇の皇后、東福門院(徳川)和子様が滞在された。

Kyakuden tea room was the residence of Emperor Gomizuno's wife, Empress Kazuko Tofukumon (Tokugawa).

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離宮・客殿の「霞棚(かすみだな)」。桂離宮の「桂棚」、醍醐寺 三宝院の「醍醐棚」と並び、京都の三大名棚として名高い。

"Kasumi-dana" shelves are located in Kyakuden tea room of the middle garden.  It is one of the Kyoto's three most famous shelves, along with the Katsura Imperial Villa's "Keitana" and the Daigoji temple Sanpoin's "Daigotana".
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木戸には当時の祇園祭の山鉾の絵が、鮮やかな色彩で美しいまま残っている。

On the wooden doors, paintings of the Gion festival Yamahoko (decorated floats) of 500 years ago remain beautiful with vivid colors.
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吉野桜の襖絵も眩いばかり。

Paintings of Yoshino cherry brossums on the sliding doors are just dazzling.
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離宮に向かう道。標識は「ドローン禁止」。

The pass to the upper garden.  The signboard says "No Drones".
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離宮御成門

Onarimon gate of the upper palace.
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離宮は、修学院離宮の最大の見どころ。回遊庭園の中心の浴龍池(よくりゅうち)。龍が水浴びをして休憩しているように見える。

The upper palace is the biggest highlight of Shugakuin Imperial Villa.  Yokuryuchi Pond is located in the center of the circuit style garden.  Means dragon looks bathing and taking a break.

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高台にある隣雲亭(りんうんてい)からの見晴らしが素晴らしい。

Rinuntei tea room on the hill.  The view is wonderful.
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34年前、浩宮皇太子(現今上天皇)のご案内の下でチャールズ皇太子とダイアナ妃が修学院離宮をご訪問された際に、ここまで歩いて登ってこられ、この縁側に腰掛けて休憩されたとのこと。

When Prince Charles and Princess Diana visited the Shugakuin Imperial Villa under the guidance of the Crown Prince (current Emperor of Japan) 34 years ago, they walked up to here and took a rest on this veranda.
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離宮からは京都市内が一望できる。隣雲亭は海抜150メートルだから、京都タワー(131メートル)よりも高い。

Can see the whole city of Kyoto from the upper palace.  Rinuntei tea room is 150 meters in elevation and higher than Kyoto Tower (131 meters).

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遠方には京都で一番高い山、愛宕山(西山)が。

Can see Mt. Atagoyama (west mountains) in the distance, the highest mountain in Kyoto.
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浴龍池の中島にかけられた石橋、千歳橋。

Chitosebashi Bridge over the island in Yokuryuchi Pond.
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中島の高台にある窮遂亭(きゅうすいてい)。今日まで建て替えられていない唯一の建物。南の土間庇の軒下には,後水尾上皇宸筆による「窮邃」の額が。静けさを保つ、と言う意味。見晴らしが良く、後水尾上皇や賓客の文化人の方々が窓の棚に肘をつけて景色を楽しめるよう設計されている。

Kyusuitei tea room on the hill of the island.  The only building that has not been rebuilt until today.  Below the eaves in the south hand writing of "Kyusui" by Emperor Gomizuo is set.  Its meaning is keeping calm.
The outside view is beautiful, and the room is designed so that Emperor Gomizuo and his guests could enjoy the scenery by putting their elbows on the window shelves.
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「千歳橋」の近影。宝形造の屋根には鳳凰が置かれている。

Chitosenashi Bridge.  A phoenix is ​​placed on the treasure-boat-shaped roof.

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浴龍池の西浜から振り返って見た上離宮。紅葉の名所で、水面に映る紅葉が美しいと言う。秋の見頃は大変な人気、次回はぜひトライしよう。

The upper palace seen from the west shore of Yokuryu Pond.  It is a famous place for autumn leaves, and the autumn leaf colors reflected on the surface of the water are said beautiful.  Next time should come back in Autumn.
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離宮から、修学院離宮全景と京都市を見下ろす。左手が中離宮、右手が下離宮。それぞれの建物は木々に囲われて見えないよう設計され、田園風景。

From the upper palace, can see the whole view of Shugakuin Imperial Palace and Kyoto city. The left hand is the middle palace and the right hand is the lower palace.  Each palace is surrounded by woods and designed to be invisible.
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修学院離宮は、後水尾上皇正室(皇后様)のご実家である徳川家の資金力を使い、心血を注いで建設した庭園と言われる。ガイドの方によると、桂離宮の8倍規模のスケールの修学院離宮を、上皇は58歳に企画・造営開始し、64歳に完成したと言う。その情熱たるや。しかし、後水尾上皇自身は京都仙洞御所に住まわれ、ここ修学院離宮に宿泊される事はなかったと言う。

理由はともかく、上皇がいかにエネルギーに満ちパワフルで企画力抜群の方だったのか、想像は尽きない。昭和天皇の次に長生きし、御子様も沢山。

Shugakuin Imperial Villa were built by Emperor Gomizuno with the financial resources of his wife's family, Tokugawa Shogun family.  According to the guide, the Emperor started the construction of the villa, which is eight times as large as Katsura Imperial Villa, at the age of 58 and completed it at the age of 64.  What a great passion of his!
However, Emperor Gomizuno lived in Kyoto Sento Imperial Palace and just visited here but never lived here.
Can't imagine how energetic and powerful the Emperor was.  He lived the second longest next to Emperor Hirohito and had many children.

 

夜は蛸薬師通りの「割烹 蛸八」へ。京都に来るたびに何度も伺っているわずか10席の割烹で、京都の有名割烹店の当主が閉店後に訪れる、隠れた名店。

At night, headed to "Kappo Takohachi", a small restaurant on Takoyakushi Street.  A hidden restaurant that visited many times every time came to Kyoto and the owner chefs of other prominent restaurants in town visit after closing.

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保守的で店のホームページは無く、メニューも材料が貼り出されているだけ。京料理の真髄、季節の食材も聞かないと分からないので、慣れるまで何度か通う必要があるが、味は超一流。

The restaurant is conservative and has no URL, and its menu is posted to show only ingredients.  Can't see seasonal ingredients, the essence of Kyoto cuisine, without asking to the chef, so need to visit several times until get used to it, but the quality and taste are top notch.

 

⭐️ 「割烹鮹八」はミシュラン京都2021にてビブグルマンとして掲載。これまで掲載を辞退されてきたとのことだが、まずはおめでとうございます。🎉

⭐️ "Kappo Takohachi" is now awarded Bib gourmand in Michelin Guide Kyoto 2021.  Heard they have declined to publish so far, but first of all, Congratulations 🥳.

 

翌朝は奈良町(ならまち)に寄り、庚申さんのお使いを模った赤い身代わり申(さる)を購入。

The next morning, stopped at Naramachi Town and purchased a red monkey amulet, which imitates a messenger of Koshin, the Chinese religion.

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奈良町では多くの家が中に禍が入って来ないように軒先に赤い身代わり申がぶら下げている。影になって見えないが全軒ぶら下げている。

Most houses in Naramachi Town are hanging red monkey amulets at their eaves so that no troubles enter the houses.  Can't see some in the shadow, but all the houses are hanging it.

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奈良町は世界遺産元興寺(がんこうじ)」のかつての広い境内に造られたもの。元興寺蘇我馬子が606年に建立した日本最初の仏教寺院「飛鳥寺」を平城京遷都後の718年に移転したもの。当時の瓦がそのまま使用されている。

Naramachi Town was built on the original large precinct of the world heritage "Gankoji Temple".  Genkoji is former  "Asukadera Temple", the first Buddhism temple built by Soga no Umako in 606, and was moved here and renamed in 718 along with the relocation of the Heijokyo (Nara) capital.  The roof tiles of that time are still used.

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奈良町の夏はいつ来てもとても暑い。

Summertime of Naramachi Town is always very hot.



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