(Kanazawa-2)日本美味しいもの巡り Japan delicious food tour

朝の金沢城公園。石川門。金沢は中核都市の一つだが、経済活動は本格化していない様子で静かな朝。

Kanazawa Castle Park in the morning.  Ishikawa mon Gate.  Kanazawa is one of the core regional cities, but seems that economic activities are not yet in full.
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二の丸付近。加賀藩の実質的な行政の中心。

Near Ninomaru buildings.   The effective administrative center of the Kaga domain.
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金沢城公園とこれに隣接する兼六園のマップ。

A map of Kanazawa Castle Park and adjacent Kenrokuen Garden.
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本丸跡。江戸時代初期に焼失。

Honmaru (main building) trace.  The building was Bon urned down at the early stage of the Edo period. 
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京丹後の天橋立まで来たが、あいにくの雨で今回は伊根は諦め、また次回の楽しみに。

Came to Amanohashidate place in Kyotango, but unfortunately raining, so gave up visiting Ine port town this time, will come back next time.
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京都に移動し美濃吉で夕食。

Move to Kyoto and have dinner at Minokichi restaurant.
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鴨川御前。7月に向けて祇園祭(今年は中止)のデザイン紙。まだ6月なので水無月風にアレンジした「胡麻豆腐」から。

Kamogawa Gozen dinner course.  Gion Festival (cancelled this year though) is on the design paper for July.  Still in June, so start with "sesame tofu" arranged in a Minazuki confectionary style.
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茅の輪くぐり風の飾りの付いた「季節の彩り」。

"Seasonal color" appetizer with a decoration that resembles a wheel of Chinowa.
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揚げたお麩が入った「京の白味噌仕立て」の碗もの。

Soup bowl of "Kyoto's white miso" with fried Fu (bran).
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湯葉、鯛と鮪のお造りに鯛皮の小さな煮こごり。

Sashimi dish of Yuba (tofu skin), sea bream and small jelly of sea bream broth and skin.
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海老、鱧などの天ぷら変わり揚げ。

Deep-fried tempura of shrimp, Hamo (pike conger) and vegetables.
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賀茂茄子のうま煮。大きくて食べ応えあり。

Steamed Kamo eggplant.  Big and delicious to eat.
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湯葉ジャコご飯。

Yuba Jako (small fishes) rice.
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最後に抹茶アイスクリーム。

Maccha ice cream as a desert.
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翌日は八坂神社の向かい「祇園 いづ重」で昼食。「いづ重」は鯖寿司の名店「いづう」の暖簾分け。両店とも作り方は同じで美味しいが、より昆布締めが効いていると感じる「いづ重」派。

Next day, had a lunch at "Gion Izuju".  Izuju is an old time spin-off restaurant from the famous mackerel sushi restaurant "Izuu".  The recipes are the same for both restaurants, and they are both delicious, but the Izuju's mackerel sushi seems more marinated with kelp.  Prefer "Izuju" personally.

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京都では、晴れの日の祝いの膳に特に馴染み深いのが「鯖寿司」。古来より鮮魚の入手が難しく、冷蔵技術のない時代、若狭で獲れたての真鯖に一塩し、山々を越えて運び、良い塩梅の酢飯と昆布で作る「保存の利くご馳走」として生み出された先人たちの知恵が詰まった鯖寿司。百年以上に亘り変わらずに手間暇かけた製法とお味、なんとも京都らしい贅沢な逸品。(お店のホームページより抜粋)

Mackerel sushi and horse mackerel sushi on the dish.  In Kyoto, the mackerel sushi is well ordered for celebrating days.  In the old days when it was difficult to obtain fresh fish far from ocean, as there was no refrigeration technology available, freshly caught mackerel in Wakasa beach was salted, carried across the mountains, and made as a "conservative food" made from vinegared rice with high quality salt plums and kelp.  Mackerel sushi has a lot of wisdom of predecessors.  It's a luxurious culture of Kyoto cooking, with the method and taste that have been long term continuing and unchanging for over 200 years. (from store's homepage)
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昆布で巻いた鯖寿司と鯵寿司。鯖寿司の断面を見ると半分近くが鯖で、その形が兎のようだと言われることも。ご飯もお店のおくどさんで薪を使い炊いている。

Mackerel sushi with removed kelp and square horse mackerel sushi.  Nearly half of the cross-sectional area of the sushi is mackerel.  It is sometimes said the shape is like a rabbit.  Rice is cooked by wood fire at restaurant's traditional kitchen.
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鯖寿司は「周りの昆布は外してください」との指示だが、せっかくの昆布は食する派。大満足。

Restaurant's instruction for mackerel sushi are "please remove the surrounding kelp", but prefer to enjoy the kelp as well.
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夕方「城南宮」へ。創建は平安遷都以前に遡り、平安城の南方・裏鬼門を鎮めるお宮の意味。800年前の承久の乱や、150年前の戊辰戦争のきっかけともなり歴史を変える主役となったことでも知られる。

In the evening, headed to "Jonangu Shrine".  Its establishment date is back to before the Heian (Kyoto) capital relocation, and it was assigned as south guardian, one of the four shrines protecting city's four corners.  It is also known to have played a leading roles in changing history at the Jokyu disturbance 800 years ago, and the Boshin war 150 years ago.

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城南宮の茅の輪くぐりは「とはのもり 夏越しの祓えする人は 千歳の命伸ぶといふなり」と唱えてまっすぐ通り抜ける。「とはのもり」は「鳥羽の森」と「永遠の森」の掛詞。ここでは3回廻る必要なし。

Jonangu Shrine's wheel of Chinowa.  It says to walk straight through the wheel with worship of  "Towanomori Nagoshi no Harae... (walking through Chinowa at the Toba area will make you live 1000 years)".  "Towanomori" means both Toba and eternity.  No need to go around the wheel three times here.
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帰宅後「出町ふたば」の水無月を頂きほっと一息。

Minazuki (means June) confectionary by the "Demachi-Futaba" mochi shop for refreshment after coming back home.

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